I've been in the Sapa area for nine years and find that the best approach to trekking and staying in the area is to never book ahead at a hotel or agency in Hanoi, where they will charge three or four times the real cost and where they will pay close to nothing to the ethnic minirities who do the work. Come on a bus to Sapa and you will be greeted by Hmong women who will immediately take you on a trek to their village while their husbands will bring any luggage you don't want to carry to their home by motorbike. Lately several Hmong have gotten online, so you can actually book a stay this way, but make sure it is a real Hmong and not some Hanoian faking it.
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